". Among the colorful personalities making periodic appearances in Caen's columns was Edsel Ford Fung, whose local reputation as "the world's rudest waiter" was due in no small part to Caen, who lamented his death in 1984: SOME WOE around Sam Wo, the skinny three-story restaurant on Washington near Grant. Most Californians can put off filing taxes until Oct. 16 but should they? If youre like 99 percent plus of the world and have never heard of, much less set foot on, Sixth Street let me say its the kind of street which sometimes evokes the word denizens, a bit of dirty sidewalk and traffic jams where the wise walk without jingling their change and to look a passerby in the eye may be regarded as an unconscionable affront. You couldn't bull--." SFGate.com. Your Privacy Choices (Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads). Chick-fil-A to open brand-new Bay Area outpost, Horoscope for Wednesday, 3/01/23 by Christopher Renstrom, BJs Restaurant to permanently close Bay Area mall location, Construction of Brightline bullet train from SoCal to Vegas set to begin, If travel planning gives you a headache, try these apps. SINBAD'S -- The Ferry Building, Pier 2, S.F., (415) 781-2555: Filet of salmon florentine ($14.50); Big Band music on the sound system. Restaurants long gone like Baldelli's, Ernie's, and Jack's cropped up, as did Ed Moose's famous joint on Washington Square Park, Enrico's before it changed, and Herb's home on Pacific Ave. The Fruity Cafe 129 reviews Closed today Healthy $ "Nice coffee, juice, etc!" . 65. "Most of the time the seriousness was about some weekly screwup by me," says Brown. Saint Andrew's. 9 Quai de Juillet, 14000, Caen 9.1 / 10 712 reviews. My Dad asked me if I remembered our dinner (yes) and if the restaurant is still there (don't know because we can't remember the name). MOOSE'S -- 1652 Stockton Street, S.F., (415) 954-0744: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes, $1.50; Mini Mooseburgers, 95 cents; Skyy vodka martinis 75 cents. Offer good until Valentine's Day. MICHELIN French. He mentions a Washington lawmaker who once worked at City Hall and "lived in fear of Herb. On Sundays,[10] current items were set aside in favor of "Mr. San Francisco's"[6] reflections on his unconditional love for his adopted city, musing on (for example): The crowded garages and the empty old buildings above them, the half-filled nightclubs and the overfilled apartment houses, the saloons and the skies and the families huddled in the basements, the Third Street panhandlers begging for handouts in front of pawn shops filled with treasured trinkets, the great bridges and the rattle-trap street cars, the traffic that keeps moving although it has no place to go, thousands of newcomers glorying in the sights and sounds of a city they suddenly decided to love instead of leave." . ONE MARKET RESTAURANT -- One Market Street, S.F., (415) 777-5577: $3 Stoli martinis all day; meatloaf and garlic mashed potatoes for lunch ($12.50); live music with Gini Wilson and Paul Breslin from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m. PALOMINO -- 345 Spear Street, S.F., (415) 512-7400: Reissue of the Herb Caen Way . The menu of Vietnamese restaurant Tu Lan, with an undated Herb Caen item about Julia Child's visit to the establishment on Sixth Street in San Francisco. The food was very good, Child recalled. Which means I had a daily call from him. Peoria, AZ. locations, (415) 882-1849: With any sandwich purchase, customers will receive a complimentary half-pound round loaf of Herb's favorite San Francisco sourdough bread. Cook Hai Le cooks at Tu Lan on Sixth Street on Oct. 4, 2013. . She contented herself with spring rolls, pork shish kebabs with rice noodles, lemon beef salad, fried fish and Tsingtao beer.. Lunch begins, as it always began, with each of the gents throwing dice for his drink tab with Toni Staiano, the bartender at Le Central. I read this just hours before recording a podcast with new Chronicle restaurant critic Soleil Ho, whose approach is to infuse discussion of race and culture and economic realities into her reviews. Jim Wood had become as impressive a figure as Julia Child. FIOR D'ITALIA RESTAURANT -- 601 Union Street, S.F. He made the city a living creature. 4 photos. [11] He died February 1, 1997. And from that day on, having been made properly aware of the State's awful vengeance, no holdup man ever again killed a shopkeeper? Contactless delivery and your first delivery or pickup order is free! He looks around and says, "It ain't bad, but it ain't San Francisco. Julia Child pulled up in a black limousine, picked up Wood, and drove a block and a half to the restaurant. But there is another sort of column that earned Mr. Caen welcome here when he arrived 55 years ago from Sacramento, a greenhorn in the big city, a Jew in a gentile town. ("the damndest saddest, most wonderful funeral anyone ever had, but the only man who could properly describe it isn't here," said Enrico Banducci)[12]:20 Despite the traditional male camaraderie of mutual insults, "If he were rude at the table," says de Wildt, "he would call before five o'clock that day and ask, 'Are you still thinking of it?' The first vodka martini is on us! . No date has yet been set for the vows, and there's much teasing over delays, but Brown refuses to join the speculation. Small unpretentious restaurant with a welcoming vibe, open kitchen layout and creative menu. This page was last edited on 22 December 2022, at 03:21. He crowns "Namephreaks" like Buzz Minnow, a local fisherman, or Shirley Nice, a kindly schoolteacher. KULETO'S -- 221 Powell Street, S.F., (415) 397-7720: Vitamin V Stoli martinis ($3); Big Band music recordings. By his own accounting, and the tale gets musty with the years, he raised his fist defiantly toward the skyline. The men get discussed before the ladies. In addition to the iconic Artichoke slice, you should order the savory Crab and the Margherita. "If you arrived in that mood, you were victimized, whatever your problem was," says Brown. Here's Another winter storm? "He gave us a heartbeat for the city. Impresario Bill Graham hated Caen, recalls the foursome, and de Wildt and Kelly recall being at a Napa Valley lunch where someone unhappy about his mention in the column came up behind Caen, pummeled him and wound up rolling on the ground with him. New hires at The San Francisco Chronicle often begin their careers dining at Tu Lan. Being a part of his inner circle had its obligations, especially in regard to contributions to the column, which Caen admitted -- in his middle years -- was No. 1. After Wood died, his obituary writer Patricia Yollin remembered the Tu Lan/Julia Child story. they ask. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9:30 p.m. GAYLORD (INDIA) RESTAURANT -- Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point, S.F., (415) 771- 8822: Half-price Vitamin V martinis at dinner. Mr. San Francisco is all ears. Fatigue caused a journalists nightmare to come true. (415) 986-1886: Complimentary bottle of Fior d'Italia wine (Chardonnay or Cabernet) with meal for mentioning Herb Caen's name. Dr. Zhivago director David Lean was in town. "It's like I let them down. PEER INN RESTAURANT -- Pier 33, S.F., (415) 788-1411: Bowl of mussels, shot of whiskey and a glass of beer, $3.95. More so than the tools and techniques she popularized, Child's most lasting legacy may be her spirit and sense of humor. "And here I am, 110 pounds at best. You couldn't enhance it. . home to Smith College. Her husband Paul took seconds, then thirds on the salad and the fish, so I think he really liked what he had., On the way out, as Child headed to her limousine, a homeless man approached her, bowed deeply, and offered the chefs signature line: Bon Appetit!. He bought his first hat before leaving Sacramento and rode the ferry toward San Francisco. "If he had decided to run for mayor, I would have supported him and asked to be police chief. Jim Wood, it seemed, was a kindred spirit, writing similar prose several years before Soleil was born. This is a carousel. Edgar Sierra has been chef of Cafe Bastille since 2000, and he previously cooked at Cafe Marimba, a Mexican-Californian place in The Marina district. You had respect for certain things because he made them so real. Chronicle photo by Scott Sommerdorf, The dice cup used by Herb Caen to play "Boss" dice at Le Central is immortalized there in a plexiglass display case hung behind the bar. The corroboration is the menu itself; what looks like a photocopy-of-a-photocopy-of-a-photocopy-of-a-photocopy of a truncated Herb Caen column, with no date. Is this just another Bay Area tale - like the Oakland port cranes that definitely didnt inspire The Empire Strikes Back - that is too captivating to be doubted? Waiter (and one-time part owner) Edsel Ford Fung, who became famous for berating and insulting the customers, all with tongue in cheek, died Tuesday at age 55, and the skinny old eating place is in mourning. )[30] For an eternity, the victim twitched in spasm after spasm, and one by one the witnesses began fainting around me. Today is a Tuesday masquerading as Friday, the traditional day that Herb Caen, Willie Brown, Wilkes Bashford, Harry de Wildt and Matthew Kelly broke bread together in the window of the Bush Street restaurant. Theyd had an appointment to meet for dinner and overwhelmed with work Jim forgot to check his calendar, Ever gracious, Julia said it wasnt a problem and that shed meet Jim and me, his wife, the following night for dinner. One Mans San Francisco, Doubleday & Company Inc., Garden City, New York, 1976. Several other names of people who dropped into the group and didn't last are mentioned. That would be a fine kicker. It was a very dirty place, but I enjoyed it and had no ill effects., Peter Hartlaub is The San Francisco Chronicles pop culture critic. The Harvard-educated editor and reporter, who had covered schools, courts and food, had been working too hard. Any remaining suspense ended quickly, during a second search. Adding new drink called "Herb's Vitamin V" to permanent cocktail list. The very idea seems to deflate him. But in a serious way, "he would only write negatively," said Bashford, whom Caen stood by through landlord-tenant problems, "when something was diminishing San Francisco.". BOULEVARD RESTAURANT -- One Mission Street, S.F., (415) 543-6084: Big Band music all day and a complimentary taster plate of meat loaf and mashed potatoes when ordering a Vitamin V martini. Herb Caen, April 2, 1958. My goal is to ultimately have lunch alone. Lunch, $15; dinner, $19.38. "It would change everything, of course.". 60 restaurants. It will be on page 1 of The San Francisco Chronicle, if he has his way, smack in the middle of the page and bordered in black. It was just that kind of day when Mr. Caen arrived here, hired by The Chronicle, in a dream come true, to write a column about radio. "If you discussed an item with him, you couldn't mislead him. His patrons are amused by it, Mr. Moose says, and it gives Mr. Caen no end of pleasure. "I'm without talent," hoots Brown. This is serious stuff." An occasional column was given over to serious matters, such as a May1, 1960, piece on the upcoming execution of Caryl Chessman, which included Caen's recollection of witnessing a hanging as a young reporter: Suddenly the door behind the scaffold swung open and the nightmare scene was enacted in a flash. He covers Bay Area culture, co-hosts the Total SF podcast and writes the archive-based Our SF local history column. A particular favorite is Chinese gruel (known as "jook") as whipped up by Sam Wo in his spot on a Chinatown side street; Sam's is the only jook joint in town, and he . ROSMARINO RESTAURANT -- 3665 Sacramento Street, S.F. 1 on his life's list of priorities. "You're in Caen today," one San Franciscan will say to another first thing in the morning, and even the most sophisticated among them are pleased. 228. The meal begins with minor consideration of the menu, while de Wildt recalls their late pal playfully dissing the cuisine. " SCOTT'S SEAFOOD GRILL & BAR -- 2400 Lombard Street, S.F., (415) 563-8988: Herb's Heavenly Pasta, tagliarini with clams ($5.50); Vitamin V martinis, $1. He pays his own way everywhere, he insists, and jostles for a modest lunch check at Moose's to prove the point. "Most of the people looked like they were wearing uniforms from hotel school," huffs de Wildt. He always bitched.". from 3 to 5 p.m. The names make people happy, a lesson he learned when he wrote the Corridor Gossip column at Sacramento High School under the byline Raisin Caen. Readers who turned to Herb on Feb. 14, 1966, learned that Willie Mays' home was on the market for $110,000. To preserve these articles as they originally appeared, The Times does not alter, edit or update them. And the 77-year-old scribe, thought to be America's longest-running columnist, will write it himself, right down to the last three-dot item. Old versions of these columns, sort of Herb Caen's greatest hits, run in the Sunday paper, in a slight concession to the weariness of age. When Cecilia first opened the Mandarin in 1960, business was slow. THE FRANCISCAN -- Pier 43 1/2, S.F., (415) 362- 7733: Herb Caen Martini Special, Tanqueray Gin Martini, Ketel One Vodka Martini, Absolut Kurant Cosmopolitan, Maker's Mark Bourbon Manhattan in a choice of two sizes: $3, $5. (Menu items then included an order of . L'Accolade. Paul Child really liked the food, but in Woods article, Childs thoughts about the meal remain vague throughout. The meal was wonderful, although Im not sure that Julia liked it as well as I did, Wood wrote. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Baghdad By The Bay Herb Caen 1949 1st. It was more important to have a favorable mention from Herb than an editorial endorsement." RITZ-CARLTON, SAN FRANCISCO -- 600 Stockton Street, S.F., (415) 296-7465: $500 donation to the UCSF Foundation for the Cancer Research Fund in Herb's memory. Mostly the columns are of the classic three-dot variety, a compendium of local gossip, silly puns, cute license plates, jibes at neighboring communities -- and as many names as Mr. Caen can squeeze in. Friday lunches at Le Central were legendary / Window table, boss dice, power talk, A portrait of Herb Caen hangs in Le Central restaurant on Bush Street where he and (from left) Matthew Kelly, Harry deWildt, Mayor Willie Brown and Wilkes Bashford met on Fridays for lunch and comraderie starting in 1974. he says. 1. What are the best restaurants in Caen for cheap eats? could be eligible for a share of $104 million. AT LUNCH WITH: Herb Caen; Romancing San Francisco In 1,000 Words or Less, https://www.nytimes.com/1993/05/26/garden/at-lunch-with-herb-caen-romancing-san-francisco-in-1000-words-or-less.html. [12]:9, June 14, 1996, was officially celebrated in San Francisco as Herb Caen Day. MEL'S DRIVE-IN -- 2165 Lombard Street/ 3355 Geary Street, S.F., (415) 921-3031 and (415) 387-2244: Meat loaf and mashed potatoes, 80 cents all day. 18 Rue Porte au Berger, 14000, Caen HOUSE OF PRIME RIB -- 1906 Van Ness, S.F., (415) 885-4605: The "Herb Caen Cut" -- everything a cut above -- and 25-cent martinis. Free shipping for many products! . Artichoke Basille's Pizza | 480-590-5830 | 1120 E Baseline Rd, Tempe, Arizona 85283. is a question Mr. Caen (pronounced cane) is used to hearing, and he's got the answer down pat. Great Deal. BARTs second Transbay Tube could get quashed as planners scale back Workers in S.F. But in Woods article, Childs thoughts about the meal remain vague throughout talent, hoots... 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